The Average Climber Podcast

Episode 43: ”Bangs are an adult haircut”, 10 things we wish we knew one year into climbing

We're throwing it back to the start of our climbing careers. From the way we trained, to our attitudes, to our haircuts - there is a LOT that we've learned since our first year of climbing. In this episode, we're giving you a heartfelt glimpse into the mistakes we made when we were n00bs in the climbing gym. We hope that sharing our blunders saves you some time and energy as you make your way along your climbing journey. Trust me, some of our mistakes are so glaring, you'll be laughing both with us and AT us. You don't want to miss this.If this episode got you inspired to take your approach to climbing to a new level this fall, we've got you covered! Check out the links below for more information about working with us and supporting the show!
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching at the link below.Apply Here
Join the Monthly Nutrition Membership waitlist! https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/monthly-nutrition-membership-waitlist
Join the Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs! 
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com
 

SNACK BREAK: Solving 8 of your most frustrating footwork struggles

Whether the foot holds are too high, too low, too slippery, or challenging in other ways, footwork can pose a variety of challenges in climbing. In this snack break, we're breaking down eight of the most common footwork struggles climbers face and giving you a variety of ways to solve them. If you've ever been stumped by the footholds on a climb, this episode is for you. 
Good Spray Movement Drills + Videos: 
Eyes on the prize: https://youtu.be/imyKiAVCb28
Foot swap vs. 3 step match: https://youtu.be/wbQ_EfwxFmc
Top Heavy: https://youtu.be/hEIwEP4cJAg
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.Apply Here
Join the Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 42: ”Do you need to go full wumbo?”, impacts on athletic performance, a climber’s take on intermittent fasting [pt. 2]

In part one of our series on intermittent fasting, we looked at the pros and cons of time restricted eating for general health. However, general health is not the only thing we want you to understand. We also want you to be aware of how intermittent fasting can impact your athletic pursuits. In part two of the series, we examine IF's impacts on strength, endurance, body composition, and other metrics related to athletic performance. 
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
Join the Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com
SOURCES: 
1. Clayton DJ, Barutcu A, Machin C, Stensel DJ, James LJ. Effect of Breakfast Omission on Energy Intake and Evening Exercise Performance. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2015 Dec;47(12):2645-52. doi: 10.1249/MSS.0000000000000702. PMID: 25970668.2. Cornford E, Metcalfe R. Omission of carbohydrate-rich breakfast impairs evening 2000-m rowing time trial performance. Eur J Sport Sci. 2019 Feb;19(1):133-140. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2018.1545052. Epub 2018 Nov 15. PMID: 30431398.
3. Levy, Emily MD; Chu, Thomas DO. Intermittent Fasting and Its Effects on Athletic Performance: A Review. Current Sports Medicine Reports 18(7):p 266-269, July 2019. | DOI: 10.1249/JSR.0000000000000614 
4. Moro, T., Tinsley, G. M., Longo, G., Grigoletto, D., Bianco, A., Ferraris, C., Guglielmetti, M., Veneto, A., Tagliabue, A., Marcolin, G., & Paoli, A. (2020). Time-restricted eating effects on performance, immune function, and body composition in elite cyclists: a randomized controlled trial. Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition, 17(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12970-020-00396-z
 
 

SNACK BREAK: Should climbers use creatine?

Did you know that creatine is one of the most studied supplements? Or that it can help increase your capacity for high power activity *ahem, rock climbing*. Well, now you know. In this episode we're discussing the upsides and downsides of this interesting supplement. We're answering a few listener questions too. If creatine has ever crossed your mind, give this episode a listen.
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 41: ”I’m not playing dodgeball on an empty stomach”, a climber’s take on intermittent fasting [pt. 1]

The information around intermittent fasting is as voluminous as it is confusing. Some health professionals tout it as a Holy Grail for health and longevity. But is it all it's cracked up to be? And is this nutrition strategy helpful for climbers? It's time to dig into the benefits, downsides, and everything in between when it comes to intermittent fasting.Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com
Sources + Notes + Links: 
1. NOTE: as of 9/13/23 the 'crickets' are still around Lander, however, their populations have gone down significantly (per Lauren's observations, at least)2. The Normal Gossip Episode we discussed is the episode titled 'Til Deb Do us Part with Caroline Moss and Sally Tamarkin3. Studies and resources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2405717/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10837292/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1548337/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34198554/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6950580/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34929259/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29307281/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11220789/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34383300/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34733872/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8092432/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26135345/
 

Snack Break: avoiding tick list overwhelm, a guided exercise for planning your next climbing trip

So little time so many climbs. The ever-present struggle when you find yourself on a climbing trip. Add in that your friends probably don't want to do the exact same climbs as you, and you've got yourself a real pickle. 
In this Snack Break, we're taking you through a guided exercise to help YOU get your plans and priorities straight for your next outdoor climbing adventure.
Speaking of getting ready for outdoor adventures - make sure to get on the Sendsgiving wait list! You can get on the list + learn more about Sendsgiving Custom Plans at www.goodsprayclimbing.com/sendsgiving.Take Caitlin's Survey! https://forms.gle/uQsgXVfpRyjQTKUh7Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contactIf the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
 
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeoverLearn about Good Spray Programs! Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 40: ”The red holds are universally hated”, our thoughts, tips, and strategies for climbing better on the Moonboard

If the moonboard were in the cast of Mean Girls - no questions asked, it'd be Regina George. People love it. People hate it. People are obsessed with it. People want to be around it. People want to be as far away from it as possible. Either way, they CANNOT stop talking about it.
So in this episode we're cutting through the noise and getting to the truth about the Moonboard. Is it really a 'magical tool'? Is it going to get you injured? Is it impossible to climb on if you're short? What kind of sessions can you do on it? And HOW do you get warmed up to climb on this thing? 
We're digging into all that and more on this episode of The Average Climber Podcast.Did this episode get you thinking about training? If so, good! Because there's something EXCITING brewing and if you've got a climbing trip planned in November, you'd better listen up. There's a special deal on custom plans going on to help YOU get ready for your November adventures. You can learn about the Sendsgiving Special at this link! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/sendsgivingIf the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
IMPORTANT NOTES, SOURCES, AND LINKS: 1. at the top of the episode Lauren mentions that the red holds are on the 2016 board. That's wrong. It's the 2017! Our bad!Additionally, Lauren mentions being full up on custom plan spots until November. This is true, and also it's a lie. If you're going on a trip for Thanksgiving, there's a deal waiting for you. You can learn about the Sendsgiving special at this link: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/sendsgiving.2. SAVE THE VAQUITA3. Lauren's series on Limit Bouldering + tactics you'll use on the moonboard
Limit Bouldering Part 1: https://youtu.be/jIgYioCQ4pcLimit Bouldering Part 2: https://youtu.be/GZv959SOmbILimit Bouldering Part 3: https://youtu.be/r3Jhirhd7bc6 Indoor Bouldering Tactics: https://youtu.be/dvXofsYWxx4
4. The Moonboard Website for searching problemshttp://mb.timparkin.net/5. Our curated list of shorter climbers to follow on Instagram who share a lot of moonboard problems!https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Y723zvZAcldhKBWh9lrHDVsMMrdBILzs_Z3RqGkY-vE/edit?usp=sharing
6. Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover7. Learn about Good Spray Programs! 
 

SNACK BREAK: How to warm up at a crag that doesn’t have warm-ups

Whether you're projecting the easiest route on the wall, or you're headed to a boulder that's far away from all the other ones, sometimes you don't always have access to the warm-up climbs you want. So what do you do in those situations? In this snack break, we're breaking down strategies for a proper warm-up even if you're climbing in a spot doesn't have the warm-up level climbing you usually look for. 
RESOURCES + LINKS: Tension Flash Board: https://tensionclimbing.com/product/flash-board-2/(this is not an affiliate link, we just really like it!)
Ready to gain an in-depth understanding of your nutrition as it relates to your body and your needs? Apply to work with Caitlin this summer - only a few spots left! Go here!Want the weekly Training Plan Makeover? Go here to have it sent to your inbox every Friday!You can learn all about Good Spray Coaching programs at www.goodsprayclimbing.comTheme music for this episode was created by Devin Dabney. Learn more about the Plug Tone Audio collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

Episode 39: ”Take me to Kelsee Church”, the intersection of mental health and climbing with licensed therapist, Kelsee Keitel

Like it or not, your mental health impacts your climbing in more ways than you know. From how you deal with failure, to the ways you compare yourself to others, to managing your motivation levels - keeping your mental health in check is foundational to living a fulfilling life (and climbing harder while you're at it).In this episode, we sat down with licensed therapist and mega adventurer, Kelsee Keitel, to get some professional help with the mental health struggles often faced by climbing athletes. You don't want to miss this episode.Resources + links mentioned in this episode:
To work with Kelsee as your remote mental health coach, nationwide, visit www.hemlockcoachingservices.com 
If you are a resident of Indiana and are interested in hiring Kelsee as your therapist (virtually or in person in Indy) visit her therapy website: ⁠www.hemlockcounselingservices.com⁠
To connect further with Kelsee, find her on instagram @kelseekeitel or listen to her podcast: Evergreen Thinking with Kelsee (also a part of the PlugTone Family!) 
Kelsee's FREE "Therapist or Coach" quiz to determine which kind of service might best serve you: https://kelseekeitelnewsletter.ck.page/fae7f99d4c
Like we discussed in the episode, if you're looking for somatic tools to regulate your body before trying to implement all the positive self-talk while your body still feels unsafe, this is an IG account with reels that Kelsee highly recommends! @somaticexperiencingint 
Boundaries Course - https://kelseekeitel.podia.com/boundaries-for-abundanceHow to find a Therapist Course - https://kelseekeitel.podia.com/how-to-find-a-therapist-mini-course
Ready to build some mental strength to go along with your mental wellbeing? The registration for Muscle Fuel Pro is OPEN! Sign up for this 4-week group coaching program that begins the week of August 21st. But don’t wait, seats are filling up FAST! Register here
Ready to gain an in-depth understanding of your nutrition as it relates to your body and your needs? Apply to work with Caitlin this summer - only a few spots left! Go here!Want the weekly Training Plan Makeover? Go here to have it sent to your inbox every Friday!You can learn all about Good Spray Coaching programs at www.goodsprayclimbing.comTheme music for this episode was created by Devin Dabney. Learn more about the Plug Tone Audio collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

SNACK BREAK: Five things you need for a minimal and effective at-home strength set-up

Fitting strength training in around climbing can be tough. You know what makes it tougher? A commute to the gym. That's why, this episode will teach you about our five favorite pieces of equipment to help you build an effective strength set-up for your home. One that's so minimal, you can shove in a closet when your mother in law comes to visit. 
Speaking of building strength, the registration for Muscle Fuel Pro is OPEN! Sign up for this 4-week group coaching program that begins the week of August 21st. But don’t wait, seats are filling up FAST! Register hereCUSTOM PLANS: August spots are full, and there is only ONE spot left for a start date in September. Go to www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-training-plan to secure your spot.
Ready to gain an in-depth understanding of your nutrition as it relates to your body and your needs? Apply to work with Caitlin this summer - only a few spots left! Go here!Want the weekly Training Plan Makeover? Go here to have it sent to your inbox every Friday!
Resources + products mentioned in this episode.*1. Force Over Time: a strength + fingers program for climbers: //www.goodsprayclimbing.com/force-over-time2. Tension Grindstone Hangboard: https://tensionclimbing.com/product/grindstone/
3. Mounting a hangboard using a door frame pull-up bar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cu-MrncHpJo&t=2s4. Rogue Kettlebells (Lauren's favorites): https://www.roguefitness.com/rogue-kettlebells*apart from Force Over Time, we are not financially affiliated with any of these products or companies. We like them, we use them, and want to share them with you.