The Average Climber Podcast

A podcast for the average rock climber featuring the training and nutrition information the everyday climber needs to know. Hosted by Lauren Abernathy, Head Coach and Founder of Good Spray Climbing, and Certified Nutrition Specialist, Caitlin Holmes. Come to learn about climbing, stay for the goofy antics. You’re in for a good time.

Listen on:

  • Apple Podcasts
  • Podbean App
  • Spotify
  • Amazon Music

Episodes

Thursday Jul 28, 2022

We sit down to discuss something that perplexes many climbers: why grades can feel SO DIFFERENT when you go to a new crag, gym or climbing area. If you have ever felt like a fish out of water visiting somewhere new, you aren't alone and we have some tips to help you. We also discuss nutrition tips for adjusting to higher altitudes - there are things you can do to ease the transition!If you've got a climbing trip coming up that you want to prepare for, we've got good news!
 
The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan! 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
Nutrition e-books are here! Check out the Climber's Nutrition Guides to Nutrient Timing, Roadtrip Feeling, and Plant-Based Fueling: https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com
 
What's your climbing theme song? Link to take the quiz: https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

Thursday Jul 21, 2022

Is it better to use a smaller edge or more weight? How do you know when it's time to progress your hangboard session? If these questions have ever kept you up at night - or even got you into a useless conversation at the crag, this episode is what you're looking for. We're digging into the protocols you can use to practically build stronger fingers. 
And if you're interested in implementing some of these protocols, these are exactly the kinds of training tools I use in my self-guided training plans. 
The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan! 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
 
What's your climbing theme song? Link to take the quiz: https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.
 
RESOURCES/LINKS FOR THIS EPISODE: 
Velocity Pulls Video: https://youtu.be/TJ0XGJNQdG8Blog post - Victoria Sending her first 5.12: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/how-victoria-sent-her-first-5-12/Force velocity curve graph: https://sportscienceinsider.com/force-velocity-curve/Form for submitting questions to the podcast: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYWU3jBcHXHXeJLKSCxEQENYvvTBjgLf7spdSryapL5OOPvA/viewform

Thursday Jul 14, 2022

In this edition of Snack Breaks, we're giving you the quick and dirty run-down of how to structure your strength training for endurance, strength, or power. If you've ever asked "is it better to do a lot of reps at a low weight or a few reps at a heavy weight?", you'll want to give this a listen. 
... and if you want some help incorporating strength training into your climbing routine, here's some good news!The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan! 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

Thursday Jul 07, 2022

In this week's episode we sit down to set the record straight on one of the more confusing aspects of climbing training: the hangboard. Today we're laying down some basic foundations and answering questions like "when's a good time to start hangboarding", "what can hangboarding help with?", and "am I gonna hurt myself!?" So sit back, relax, and get ready to have your finger danglin' questions answered.
 
Excited to get some stronger fingers of your own? Want some help with that? Then we have great news....
There is still one day left to grab a 6 or 12 week Good Spray Custom plan at a sweet discount! Spots for summer training are sold out, but if you're looking to start training in September, October, or November - jump in and grab a deal. You can secure your spot on the roster for fall training by following the link below!
www.goodsprayclimbing.com/store
 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
 
ICF in Lander is next week! 2 Clinic Spots left!
Your favorite hosts will be teaching a Clinic on Sports Nutrition and Climbing Training at this years' International Climbers Festival. Get signed up by registering for the festival and add your clinic registration during the check-out process. Admission to our clinic is FREE with the purchase of your ICF ticket!Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.
Resources & Further Reading: Go 30 Hangboard Protocol (page 20 of the Climb Strong Hangboard Manual)https://www.climbstrong.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/ClimbStrong-Hangboard_Manual-Final-2.pdf
Good Spray Bloghttps://goodsprayclimbing.com/four-hangboard-protocols-to-increase-finger-strength/
Breaking Beta episodes: Episode 1: Is this the best hangboard protocol?Episode 10: Which finger strength protocol is the best for endurance? 

Thursday Jun 30, 2022

Let me guess, you want to train for climbing, but you don't feel like you have the time to do it. Maybe you're right... or maybe you could learn a few skills to better navigate your busy schedule. That's why in this episode, we're laying out actions you can take RIGHT NOW, to make better use of your valuable time. Being time constrained is hard. And you know what takes time? Writing your own training plans. Sick of going it alone? Want some 1:1 support to get you where you want to go in climbing?
 
Then check out the custom training plan sale! 6 week and 12 weeks training plans are on sale right now. You can grab your custom plan right here, www.goodsprayclimbing.com/store
 
CLIMBERS FEST IN LANDER, WYOMING
Your favorite hosts will be teaching a Clinic on Sports Nutrition and Climbing Training at this years' International Climbers Festival. Get signed up by registering for the festival and add your clinic registration during the check-out process. Admission to our clinic is FREE with the purchase of your ICF ticket!Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com

Thursday Jun 23, 2022

In this episode, we sit down to discuss the foundation of lasting changes in your training, nutrition and life in general: HABITS! From how to form them, and when to let them go - this episode gives you the need-to-knows on habit formation.
.... speaking of forming sustainable habits around nutrition and training - we've got some great resources for you.
 
BODY COMP PRO MASTERCLASS, June 28. 4pm PDT / 7pm EDT ($27)In this masterclass, you deepen your understanding of what impacts body composition. You will learn the what, the why, and the how when it comes to holistic body composition changes.Click here to register: theoutdoornutritionist.podia.com/body-comp-pro
 
SUMMER TRAINING SALE STARTS TUESDAY JUNE 28If you have been interested in working with Lauren on a custom plan - now is the time! 12 week and 6 week custom plan spots will be on sale next week! Spots are limited. Get ready to jump on this!
Claim your spot by grabbing a plan in the Good Spray Store (www.goodsprayclimbing.com/store)
 
And if you're headed to Lander this Summer, we have two big things to tell you about. 
First of all, your favorite hosts will be teaching a Clinic on Sports Nutrition and Climbing Training at this years' International Climbers Festival. Get signed up by registering for the festival and add your clinic registration during the check-out process. Admission to our clinic is FREE with the purchase of your ICF ticket!Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.Resources for this show: Fork vs. Spoon Study - www.researchgate.net/publication/301664303_Consumption_with_fork_or_spoon_Effects_on_acute_food_intake_eating_rate_and_palatabilitySource for Nu-TRASH-ion segment:https://www.eatthis.com/simple-weight-loss-habits/

Thursday Jun 09, 2022

In this week's episode we sat down to answer YOUR questions about going on climbing trips. From training to prepare, to eating on the road, and any logistical thing in between - we covered your questions (and we did a darn good job, if we do say so ourselves!)Interested in grabbing a Crush It training program?  You can find Crush It for both boulderers and sport climbers in the Good Spray store.
And if you're headed to Lander this Summer, we have two big things to tell you about. 
First of all, your favorite hosts will be teaching a Clinic on Sports Nutrition and Climbing Training at this years' International Climbers Festival. Get signed up by registering for the festival and add your clinic registration during the check-out process. Admission to our clinic is FREE with the purchase of your ICF ticket!
Feel like your nutrition is holding you back? Then check out Caitlin's premiere course on nutrition basics and sports nutrition. Empowered will help you get clear on what changes to make, feel more energized, and once you have the course, it's yours forever so you can refresh your knowledge at any time. Click here to learn more about the course!Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

Thursday May 26, 2022

In this episode, Caitlin sits down with Lauren ahead of her new training plan. In a surprising turn of events, Caitlin is temporarily leaving her pebble wrestling ways in exchange for some sport climbing goals this summer. If you've ever wondered what it looks like to work with a coach, this episode will help you see what's under the hood.
And if you're headed to Lander this Summer, we have two big things to tell you about. 
First of all, your favorite hosts will be teaching a Clinic on Sports Nutrition and Climbing Training at this years' International Climbers Festival. Get signed up by registering for the festival and add your clinic registration during the check-out process.
Second, Lauren is hosting an 8 week group program specifically for climbing in Lander, Wyoming. Pocket Power will provide you customized training, trip beta, and the support of other athletes to get you dialed in and ready to crush. Click here to learn more. There are only 4 spots left. Pocket Power starts on June 6. And if you want to learn more about how to work with Lauren on your training, check out her offerings at www.goodsprayclimbing.com/coaching.
Feel like your nutrition is holding you back? Then check out Caitlin's premiere course on nutrition basics and sports nutrition. Empowered will help you get clear on what changes to make, feel more energized, and once you have the course, it's yours forever so you can refresh your knowledge at any time. For a limited time, Empowered is on sale for $100 off, click here to learn more about the course!
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

Thursday May 12, 2022

On this week's episode we dive into self-coaching and discuss strategies for being your own best coach. From evaluating your technique to checking-in on your nutrition, there's a lot you can do on your own to make gains in your climbing, training and nutrition. 
And as a special bonus, check out this free resource to help you check in on your nutrition! 
And if you're headed to Lander this Summer, we have two big things to tell you about. 
First of all, your favorite hosts will be teaching a Clinic on Sports Nutrition and Climbing Training at this years' International Climbers Festival. Get signed up by registering for the festival and add your clinic registration during the check-out process.
Second, Lauren is hosting an 8 week group program specifically for climbing in Lander, Wyoming. Pocket Power will provide you customized training, trip beta, and the support of other athletes to get you dialed in and ready to crush. Click here to learn more.
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!Are you looking for help with your nutrition? Caitlin has your back. Need to see if nutrition coaching is right for you? You can book a free, 15 minute chat with Caitlin to get your questions answered. 
The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.RESOURCE: Power Company Database (https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/metrics-for-climbers)

Thursday Apr 28, 2022

On today's episode we get the real deal on injuries in climbing with Doctors of Physical Therapy, Kimmy Wiley and Drake Griggs. From posture to training through your injuries, Kimmy and Drake give you what you need to know to manage a climbing injury and come back ready to crush. You can find Drake and Kimmy on their website, peak-rehab.com or over on instagram @peakpursuitrehab.
Peak Pursuit offers both in-person and remote consultations. So no matter where you are in the world, excellent care is at your fingertips!
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!Are you looking for help with your nutrition? Caitlin has your back with 1:1 nutrition coaching. Need to see if nutrition coaching is right for you? You can book a free, 15 minute chat with Caitlin to get your questions answered.Need to get your climbing training dialed in? Good Spray has your back. Check out the Good Spray Program Page to see which program fits your needs!
The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtonaudio.com.

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