The Average Climber Podcast

SENDTEMBER EP 2: "Do not hang your heads"

🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 2. If you haven't listened to episode 1 yet - go back and start at the beginning.___________________________________________________________________________Welcome to episode 2, where I'm walking you through the 7 step process of sending a limit level sport climb. (and some things to keep in mind before you dig in) In episode 3, we'll be digging into mental game + tactics for short climbing trips.LINKS:1. Apply for 1:1 coaching! 
2. Join the wait list for The Crew!
3. Project checklist example
4. Power Company Remix Episode on Failure
5. Low Pointing ResourcesSHORT VIDEOLow pointing Q&A pt 1Low pointing Q&A pt 2FOR ALL THINGS NUTRITION + CAITLIN:Play nutrition bingoAll of Caitlin's links here!

SENDTEMBER EP 1: What it takes to win a game

🚨 SPECIAL RELEASE 🚨 LAUREN HERE: Last September I created a limited release podcast that only went out to about 100 people. I got a lot of great feedback on it. I decided to re-release it during our break. There are four episodes and I'll be releasing them over the next four weeks! This is episode 1. What it takes to win a game. ______________
Welcome to episode 1 of the Sendtember Podcast. We're kicking off this 4 part series with the foundations of 5.12 climbing. We discuss- physical metrics of climbers who are redpointing 5.12 and beyond- how to be more intentional with the time you have outsideStay tuned for episode 2, where we'll be digging into the details of the process of projecting. SENDSGIVING, IS IT COMING BACK? While the Sendsgiving Program is presently retired, I do have a couple 1:1 coaching spots available for start dates in July and August. You can apply for 1:1 coaching here. LINKS: 
1. 1:1 Coaching application.
2. Endurance Training + Work Capacity 101: Average Climber Podcast Episode 32
3. Power Company Climbing Data
4. Power Company Climbing Finger vs. Pull Strength Heat Map

Sends and Suffers: Ep 85 Coaching Youth Insights and Experience Sharing with Mario Stanley and Dru Stulb

We're on break but that doesn't mean we don't have things we want to share with you.This week we're highlighting a fellow PlugToner, Mario Stanley. Mario is the host and creator of the Sends and Suffers Podcast.  A renaissance man through and through, he is a climber, coach, filmmaker, podcaster, former route setter, advocate for making climbing accessible to all, and so much more. We're thrilled to highlight this episode of Sends and Suffers in our feed.ABOUT THE EPISODE:
Join us in a conversation with Houston-based coach, Dru Stulb, in this episode of Sends and Suffers. Host Mario Stanley and Dru discuss climbing evolution, coaching, and personal growth. Learn about Dru's journey from enthusiast to coach, the role of climbing coaches, and their impact on the sport.
Discover the joys of coaching, challenges faced, and the rewards of seeing athletes grow. We also discuss the socio-economic challenges facing aspiring climbers, personal struggles, and the role of coaches in shaping expectations and growth.
Finally, learn about unique teaching methods, understanding individual goals, and the power of a transformative community in sport. This episode is a deep dive into the heart of coaching and its influence on shaping the future of climbing culture.

SUMMER BREAK + CREW ANNOUNCEMENT

We're taking a break! See you back here in August!EPISODE TOPIC REQUEST FORMhttps://forms.gle/GAinnha1sG8EveUB9
 
LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CREWwww.goodsprayclimbing.com/the-crew
last day to enroll for July is 6/27!Join Caitlin's Newsletterhttps://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/newsletter-bingo-signup

Battling the pump, combining physical and mental training

"If I train my endurance enough, I'll never get pumped and I'll never fall" If that's the way you're approaching your endurance training, this episode is for you. Improving your pumpy climbing abilities has a lot to do with A. your forearm endurance and B. how well you can keep your cool when the pump sets in. In this episode, we're taking you through a training progression to help you with both the mental and physical aspects of endurance. Get ready for some sweaty palms and bricked forearms!RESOURCES: 
IG reel showing what "level 2" looks like::https://www.instagram.com/reel/CsJ7EsAgptQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MW81aDByZW1jdWowbg==Rhythm intervals by Climb Stronghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arH2ouVoaGs
CAMPUS PUNKS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZexnS9lLdRwWRIST ROLLER EXAMPLE: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ubHDHIHI1EI
WORK WITH US: PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up)Apply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com
 

ep 79: SIX KILLER TIPS, how we've changed our minds about habit formation, behavior change and goal settingal setting

Want to eat better? You have to change your behavior. Follow a training plan? Gotta change your behavior. Stick to a stretching routine? You guessed it - BEHAVIOR CHANGE. Changing your behavior is the root of everything you want to accomplish. In this episode, we're giving you six killer tips (beyond "Atomic Habits" stuff) to help you change your behaviors for the better. PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLIN (newsletter sign-up)Apply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.comRESOURCES + CREATORS TO FOLLOW:
Read Wendy Wood's review on The Psychology of HabitCTFAR MODEL (credit: Brooke Castillo + BBA Team for showing me this model!)@karinnordinphd@jime.ramirez.coachingRESOURCES FOR COACHES:Health Mindset Coaching CertificationCoach Shannon BeerBody Brain Alliance Coach Mentorship

What Climbers get wrong about core training with Evan Ingerson DPT

Dr. Evan Ingerson is back and this time we're tackling CORE TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS. Get the perspective of a physical therapist (Evan) and a coach (Lauren) as they dissect the big questions of core training like...- Should your core training be climbing specific?- How can you tell if your core is "low hanging fruit"?- What are the most common core training mistakes climbers make?We're covering all that and more - core up and tune in.WORK WITH EVAN:www.theclimbingproject.comEmail him: evan@rockrehab.coBunkie test: https://youtu.be/nMWiRSh7VhUEvan's favorite core exercises: https://youtu.be/jUVkrwxfQ9E
ADDITIONAL LINKS:PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLINApply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewIf you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

Ep 78: Should you climb with pain? How to do it and when to get help with DPT Evan Ingerson

Should you take a week off or keep climbing on that tweaky finger? If a move makes your shoulder hurt a LOT but it feels fine 5 minutes later, what does that mean? If injury and pain feel confusing (or frustrating) to you - which is understandable - this episode with Climbing DPT Evan Ingerson is right up your alley. He has been working with climbers for 9+ years, climbing for 25 years, and was a multi-year youth national competitor. We are so excited to bring Evan’s expertise and impeccable bedside manner to the Average Climber Pod.WORK WITH EVAN:www.theclimbingproject.comEmail him: evan@rockrehab.co
Ted Talk on chronic pain as recommended by Evan: https://youtu.be/gwd-wLdIHjs?si=nd5bmtzquVdLWIjXPLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLINApply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

How to rescue an off-track afternoon (and still get your training done)

If you're someone who trains in the evenings after a long day of work - we see you, we feel you, and we know that some afternoons get totally off track. In this episode we're guiding you through the process of saving yourself from saying "eh, I'll just move that session to tomorrow". If you ever struggle with evening training motivation - this is for you.
PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLINApply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

Ep 77: Trail Running Race Week - how Caitlin got Lauren ready and fueled for her 16 mile trail race

This episode features some b roll that we recorded for the hell of it. For those of you looking for some nutrition help when you're thinking about big days out in the elements, this episode will have some tasty tips for you.Plus, if you're one of those climber-runner types - this episode has plenty of nutrition tips you'll want to tune in for.
*A NOTE ON THE RACE ELEVATION*Lauren still does not have feedback from the race organizers; however despite what Lauren's topography explorations on the Gaia app, the race elevation gain was more like 2400 feet. Lauren asked around what a few other racers' watches said and that seemed to be the approximate consensus. Lauren notes that it was overall a pleasant surprise. 
PLAY NUTRITION BINGO WITH CAITLINApply for 1:1 Coaching with LaurenJoin the wait list for the next round of The CrewAdditional Links:If you've submitted a review that we've read on the show - fill out this form to claim your sticker!https://forms.gle/yt72CVpfLHY396aW7Submit your episode ideas to us:https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdcmb5M_M4ZyaDqT26cYTKVNNVhyvSW-y-7nCsCps4wAgCAUw/viewformSupport us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com