The Average Climber Podcast

Episode 44: Six nutrition struggles you’ll face when starting a new training program, ”serial killers eat candy corn”

You start a new training plan. You're so excited. You're ready to buckle down. Everything is going to be great! And then, some unexpected roadblocks pop up - like low energy, muscle soreness, being so hungry all the time. Instead of pressing on and assuming something is wrong with you, check out this episode instead. Your struggles are totally normal, and many of these can be resolved with some simple tweaks to your nutrition. IMPORTANT LINKS + RESOURCES: 1. Caitlin's Nutrient Timing E-book!https://www.caitlinholmes.com/shop/fueled-performance-ebook
2. Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
3. If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching at the link below.Apply Here
 
4. Join the Monthly Nutrition Membership waitlist! https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/monthly-nutrition-membership-waitlist
 
5. Join Lauren's Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
6. Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
7. Learn about Good Spray Programs! 
8. Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
9. Learn more about Plug Tone Audio: www.plugtoneaudio.com

Plug Tone Presents: Written in Stone [TRAILER]

We have a special treat for you on our feed today - a trailer for Plug Tone's newest show, Written In Stone, climbing's most important ascents.
Here's a word from the show's creator, Kris Hampton"I’m making what I wish was out there: a podcast that celebrates the rich stories of climbing history. The good, the bad, and the controversy. We’re starting in the 1990s. More details coming soon, including who you will be hearing about, who you will hear from, and the incredible partners that are making this thing possible."Episode 1 drops on October 30! Get stoked and enjoy the trailer.

SNACK BREAK: Caitlin’s Big Reveal

Caitlin has some big news to share with us, and you're going to have to listen to find out because we're not telling you what it is in the show notes!LINKS:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching at the link below.Apply Here
Join the Monthly Nutrition Membership waitlist! https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/q2t3x8i6d1
Subscribe to the Weekly Bite! https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/44vuk9is5i
Join the Custom Plan waitlist! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs! 
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 43: ”Bangs are an adult haircut”, 10 things we wish we knew one year into climbing

We're throwing it back to the start of our climbing careers. From the way we trained, to our attitudes, to our haircuts - there is a LOT that we've learned since our first year of climbing. In this episode, we're giving you a heartfelt glimpse into the mistakes we made when we were n00bs in the climbing gym. We hope that sharing our blunders saves you some time and energy as you make your way along your climbing journey. Trust me, some of our mistakes are so glaring, you'll be laughing both with us and AT us. You don't want to miss this.If this episode got you inspired to take your approach to climbing to a new level this fall, we've got you covered! Check out the links below for more information about working with us and supporting the show!
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching at the link below.Apply Here
Join the Monthly Nutrition Membership waitlist! https://mailchi.mp/caitlinholmes/monthly-nutrition-membership-waitlist
Join the Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs! 
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com
 

SNACK BREAK: Solving 8 of your most frustrating footwork struggles

Whether the foot holds are too high, too low, too slippery, or challenging in other ways, footwork can pose a variety of challenges in climbing. In this snack break, we're breaking down eight of the most common footwork struggles climbers face and giving you a variety of ways to solve them. If you've ever been stumped by the footholds on a climb, this episode is for you. 
Good Spray Movement Drills + Videos: 
Eyes on the prize: https://youtu.be/imyKiAVCb28
Foot swap vs. 3 step match: https://youtu.be/wbQ_EfwxFmc
Top Heavy: https://youtu.be/hEIwEP4cJAg
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.Apply Here
Join the Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 42: ”Do you need to go full wumbo?”, impacts on athletic performance, a climber’s take on intermittent fasting [pt. 2]

In part one of our series on intermittent fasting, we looked at the pros and cons of time restricted eating for general health. However, general health is not the only thing we want you to understand. We also want you to be aware of how intermittent fasting can impact your athletic pursuits. In part two of the series, we examine IF's impacts on strength, endurance, body composition, and other metrics related to athletic performance. 
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
Join the Custom Plan wait list! https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/custom-plan-wait-list
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com
SOURCES: 
1. Clayton DJ, Barutcu A, Machin C, Stensel DJ, James LJ. Effect of Breakfast Omission on Energy Intake and Evening Exercise Performance. Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2015 Dec;47(12):2645-52. doi: 10.1249/MSS.0000000000000702. PMID: 25970668.2. Cornford E, Metcalfe R. Omission of carbohydrate-rich breakfast impairs evening 2000-m rowing time trial performance. Eur J Sport Sci. 2019 Feb;19(1):133-140. doi: 10.1080/17461391.2018.1545052. Epub 2018 Nov 15. PMID: 30431398.
3. Levy, Emily MD; Chu, Thomas DO. Intermittent Fasting and Its Effects on Athletic Performance: A Review. Current Sports Medicine Reports 18(7):p 266-269, July 2019. | DOI: 10.1249/JSR.0000000000000614 
4. Moro, T., Tinsley, G. M., Longo, G., Grigoletto, D., Bianco, A., Ferraris, C., Guglielmetti, M., Veneto, A., Tagliabue, A., Marcolin, G., & Paoli, A. (2020). Time-restricted eating effects on performance, immune function, and body composition in elite cyclists: a randomized controlled trial. Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition, 17(1). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12970-020-00396-z
 
 

SNACK BREAK: Should climbers use creatine?

Did you know that creatine is one of the most studied supplements? Or that it can help increase your capacity for high power activity *ahem, rock climbing*. Well, now you know. In this episode we're discussing the upsides and downsides of this interesting supplement. We're answering a few listener questions too. If creatine has ever crossed your mind, give this episode a listen.
Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 41: ”I’m not playing dodgeball on an empty stomach”, a climber’s take on intermittent fasting [pt. 1]

The information around intermittent fasting is as voluminous as it is confusing. Some health professionals tout it as a Holy Grail for health and longevity. But is it all it's cracked up to be? And is this nutrition strategy helpful for climbers? It's time to dig into the benefits, downsides, and everything in between when it comes to intermittent fasting.Get stickers, work with us, and support the podcast:
Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contact
If the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover
Learn about Good Spray Programs!
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcast
Learn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com
Sources + Notes + Links: 
1. NOTE: as of 9/13/23 the 'crickets' are still around Lander, however, their populations have gone down significantly (per Lauren's observations, at least)2. The Normal Gossip Episode we discussed is the episode titled 'Til Deb Do us Part with Caroline Moss and Sally Tamarkin3. Studies and resources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2405717/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10837292/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1548337/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34198554/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6950580/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34929259/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29307281/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11220789/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34383300/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34733872/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8092432/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26135345/
 

Snack Break: avoiding tick list overwhelm, a guided exercise for planning your next climbing trip

So little time so many climbs. The ever-present struggle when you find yourself on a climbing trip. Add in that your friends probably don't want to do the exact same climbs as you, and you've got yourself a real pickle. 
In this Snack Break, we're taking you through a guided exercise to help YOU get your plans and priorities straight for your next outdoor climbing adventure.
Speaking of getting ready for outdoor adventures - make sure to get on the Sendsgiving wait list! You can get on the list + learn more about Sendsgiving Custom Plans at www.goodsprayclimbing.com/sendsgiving.Take Caitlin's Survey! https://forms.gle/uQsgXVfpRyjQTKUh7Send Lauren an email so you can get a sticker for submitting a review that we feature on the Podcast!https://www.goodsprayclimbing.com/contactIf the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
 
Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeoverLearn about Good Spray Programs! Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/averageclimberpodcastLearn more about Plug Tone Audio - www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 40: ”The red holds are universally hated”, our thoughts, tips, and strategies for climbing better on the Moonboard

If the moonboard were in the cast of Mean Girls - no questions asked, it'd be Regina George. People love it. People hate it. People are obsessed with it. People want to be around it. People want to be as far away from it as possible. Either way, they CANNOT stop talking about it.
So in this episode we're cutting through the noise and getting to the truth about the Moonboard. Is it really a 'magical tool'? Is it going to get you injured? Is it impossible to climb on if you're short? What kind of sessions can you do on it? And HOW do you get warmed up to climb on this thing? 
We're digging into all that and more on this episode of The Average Climber Podcast.Did this episode get you thinking about training? If so, good! Because there's something EXCITING brewing and if you've got a climbing trip planned in November, you'd better listen up. There's a special deal on custom plans going on to help YOU get ready for your November adventures. You can learn about the Sendsgiving Special at this link! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/sendsgivingIf the nutrition side of training has you stumped - no sweat, Caitlin's 1:1 nutrition coaching will take you where you need to go. You can apply for 1:1 nutrition coaching for fall at the link below.https://cvhnutrition.typeform.com/to/vtvdMimd?typeform-source=www.caitlinholmes.com
IMPORTANT NOTES, SOURCES, AND LINKS: 1. at the top of the episode Lauren mentions that the red holds are on the 2016 board. That's wrong. It's the 2017! Our bad!Additionally, Lauren mentions being full up on custom plan spots until November. This is true, and also it's a lie. If you're going on a trip for Thanksgiving, there's a deal waiting for you. You can learn about the Sendsgiving special at this link: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/sendsgiving.2. SAVE THE VAQUITA3. Lauren's series on Limit Bouldering + tactics you'll use on the moonboard
Limit Bouldering Part 1: https://youtu.be/jIgYioCQ4pcLimit Bouldering Part 2: https://youtu.be/GZv959SOmbILimit Bouldering Part 3: https://youtu.be/r3Jhirhd7bc6 Indoor Bouldering Tactics: https://youtu.be/dvXofsYWxx4
4. The Moonboard Website for searching problemshttp://mb.timparkin.net/5. Our curated list of shorter climbers to follow on Instagram who share a lot of moonboard problems!https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Y723zvZAcldhKBWh9lrHDVsMMrdBILzs_Z3RqGkY-vE/edit?usp=sharing
6. Get the Training Plan Makeover delivered to your inbox each week! www.goodsprayclimbing.com/training-plan-makeover7. Learn about Good Spray Programs!