The Average Climber Podcast

Episode 18: ”Maintain your schooner”, how to get back on the training wagon

Striving for consistency and is great, but it isn't always realistic. Like it or not, there will be times in your life when climbing will take a backseat. But when it is time to get back in the swing of things, what does that look like? And how do you get back on the wagon - both mentally and physically? That's exactly what we're digging into in episode 18. Get ready for some actionable tips for your next comeback. ... and if you're ready to gear up for another ride on the training wagon - we've got great news! The Average Climber Intensive coming this October 1-2. In this two day intensive we'll be teaching you how to manage your nutrition, write your own training plans, and learn what you need to get to the next level in your climbing.
Ready to get signed up? You can do that right here. TWO SPOTS LEFT. The last day to register is 9/16/22.https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/average-climber-intensive
Get registered before they're gone!Music by Devin DabneyThe Average Climber Podcast is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about Plug Tone at www.plugtoneaudio.com
Special thanks to our sponsor, Gnarly Nutrition. You can learn all about Gnarly's awesome line of sports nutrition products at www.gognarly.com

SNACK BREAK: The pros and cons of projecting hard rock climbs

In this episode we're talking about trying hard and working on climbs that challenge you. What can you learn from trying a climb over many sessions? When's the best time to climb something at your limit? How can you mange your motivation throughout the projecting process? We're covering that and a whole lot more in this Snack Break. Get ready to dive in. ... and if pushing your limits in climbing excites you, then get excited for the Average Climber Intensive coming this October 1-2. In this two day intensive we'll be teaching you how to manage your nutrition, write your own training plans, and learn what you need to get to the next level in your climbing.
Ready to get signed up? You can do that right here. TWO SPOTS LEFT.https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/average-climber-intensive
Get registered before they're gone!Music by Devin DabneyThe Average Climber Podcast is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about Plug Tone at www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 17: All aboard the struggle bus, Top 4 struggles you’ll face in your training and nutrition

We all have them: struggles! You know, those things that make getting better at climbing a little harder than we'd like it to be. While we can't make all of our struggles go away, we can learn to work through them with more strategy and intelligence.  So in this week's episode, we're sharing the top struggles we see our athletes working through and some tips for getting through them. Ready to get some help with the challenges of managing your own training and nutrition? Then check out the Average Climber Intensive, a two day workshop to teach you how to write your own training plans and get your nutrition dialed in while you're at it. 
Learn more about the intensive right here:  https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/average-climber-intensive
.... and don't forget to use the code WELOVESTUBBY to get $100 off enrollment. Discount expires 9/6/22, so take advantage of this while you can! Spots are extremely limited! Get registered before they're gone!Music by Devin DabneyThe Average Climber Podcast is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about Plug Tone at www.plugtoneaudio.com

SNACK BREAK: BIG DIY ENERGY, Why the Average Climber Intensive is a dream for the self-coached climber

On today's episode we're taking you on a journey. From what was once a lofty idea to what is now an exciting opportunity coming to life, we are so pumped up to tell you more about the Average Climber Intensive, coming to you this October 1-2. In this episode you'll learn exactly who the intensive is for, what we'll be covering and how this whole, amazing she-bang is going to work. We're are so thrilled to interact directly with you and we can't wait to get this thing going! If you've been wondering how to get a better grip on your training and nutrition, this episode is for you. Ready to get signed up? You can do that right here: https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/average-climber-intensive
.... and don't forget to use the code WELOVESTUBBY to get $100 off enrollment. Discount expires 9/6/22, so take advantage of this while you can! Spots are extremely limited! Get registered before they're gone!Music by Devin DabneyThe Average Climber Podcast is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about Plug Tone at www.plugtoneaudio.com

Episode 16: Plant-based athletes part 2, ”Corn is the Ohio vegetable”, Complete Proteins & Listener Q&A

In part 2 of our plant based series we're digging into the practical side of plant-based nutrition - AKA we're answering your questions on plant-based fueling! If you want the inside scoop on applying the most important principles of plant-based nutrition, this episode is for you.
Interested in learning more about fueling and feeling your best on a plant-based diet? Check out Caitlin's guide to plant-based fueling. For just $12.99 you'll have yourself a guide to eating as a plant-based athlete. You can grab your copy by tapping the link below!https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/climber-s-nutrition-guide-plant-based-fuelingReady to level up your training and nutrition knowledge, then get psyched because The Average Climber Intensive is coming to you this October 1-2. In this two day intensive we'll teach you how to write your own training plans and empower you to eat like an athlete. Use the code WELOVESTUBBY at checkout to get $100 off registration. Pre-sale discount expires September 6, 2022. Spots are limited, register now before it's too late. LINK TO REGISTER: https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/average-climber-intensive
 
GNARLY VEGAN PROTEIN: https://gognarly.com/products/vegan-protein
Interested in learning more about the way YOU train (and how to make it better?), then take the quiz and find out your climbing theme song - AKA what you're doing well in your training and what could use a little TLC. Tap below to take the quiz!https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Want to learn more about Good Spray training programs, head on over to www.goodsprayclimbing.com/coaching to learn more!
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

SNACK BREAK: Interpreting Plant-Based Nutrition Research. The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Ever heard someone say "well the research says..." and then spout off something that sounds pretty f*ing crazy? Yeah. Us too. As much as we'd like to believe that all research is well designed and totally excellent, it's not. So in today's episode we're giving you a few tips for examining research papers. We're also diving into a couple of papers on plant-based nutrition that we thought were pretty interesting. If you like being grounded in facts, we think you'll like this episode. 
Interested in learning more about fueling and feeling your best on a plant-based diet, then check out Caitlin's guide to plant-based fueling. For just $12.99 you'll have yourself a guide to eating as a plant-based athlete. You can grab your copy by tapping the link below!https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/climber-s-nutrition-guide-plant-based-fueling
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The application closes on August 13th, 2022. Apply before it's too late.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALEInterested in learning more about the way YOU train (and how to make it better?), then take the quiz and find out your climbing theme song - AKA what you're doing well in your training and what could use a little TLC. Tap below to take the quiz!https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Want to learn more about Good Spray training programs, head on over to www.goodsprayclimbing.com/coaching to learn more!
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.SOURCES FOR THIS EPISODE: Berkeley ArticleLink: https://pha.berkeley.edu/2021/04/11/benefits-of-plant-based-diets-in-athletic-performance/
New Zealand Diet Study (Wright et. al.)https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28319109/
Exercise Capacity of vegan, lacto-ovo-vegetarian and omnivorous recreational runnersLink: https://jissn.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12970-019-0289-4
 
Lean and mean? Associations of level of performance, chronic injuries and BMI in sport climbing- Dr. G
Link: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6326274/

Episode 15: Plant-based athletes part 1, ”Plant-based Shoobies”, the athletes’ approach to a plant-based diet

In this episode we're giving all you plant-based athletes the tools you need to support your health and your athletic pursuits. We're talking protein, supplementation, what blood tests you may need and a whole lot more. If you want to feel confident in your plant-based fueling choices, you'd better tune into this. 
Interested in learning more about fueling and feeling your best on a plant-based diet, then check out Caitlin's guide to plant-based fueling. For just $12.99 you'll have yourself a guide to eating as a plant-based athlete. You can grab your copy by tapping the link below!https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/climber-s-nutrition-guide-plant-based-fueling
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, tap below to join in.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALEInterested in learning more about the way YOU train (and how to make it better?), then take the quiz and find out your climbing theme song - AKA what you're doing well in your training and what could use a little TLC. Tap below to take the quiz!https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Want to learn more about Good Spray training programs, head on over to www.goodsprayclimbing.com/coaching to learn more!
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.SOURCES FOR THIS EPISODE: Berrazaga et al., 2019Nebl et al., 2019

SNACK BREAK: Adjusting to a new climbing area, becoming more versatile, and nutrition tips for acclimating to higher altitudes

We sit down to discuss something that perplexes many climbers: why grades can feel SO DIFFERENT when you go to a new crag, gym or climbing area. If you have ever felt like a fish out of water visiting somewhere new, you aren't alone and we have some tips to help you. We also discuss nutrition tips for adjusting to higher altitudes - there are things you can do to ease the transition!If you've got a climbing trip coming up that you want to prepare for, we've got good news!
 
The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan! 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
Nutrition e-books are here! Check out the Climber's Nutrition Guides to Nutrient Timing, Roadtrip Feeling, and Plant-Based Fueling: https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com
 
What's your climbing theme song? Link to take the quiz: https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.

Episode 14: Hangboarding Part 2, ”The fun way to hang on the edge of a box”, programming, protocols, and how to get it done.

Is it better to use a smaller edge or more weight? How do you know when it's time to progress your hangboard session? If these questions have ever kept you up at night - or even got you into a useless conversation at the crag, this episode is what you're looking for. We're digging into the protocols you can use to practically build stronger fingers. 
And if you're interested in implementing some of these protocols, these are exactly the kinds of training tools I use in my self-guided training plans. 
The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan! 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
 
What's your climbing theme song? Link to take the quiz: https://quiz.tryinteract.com/#/621eca54b3a0ca0018043a7b
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.
 
RESOURCES/LINKS FOR THIS EPISODE: 
Velocity Pulls Video: https://youtu.be/TJ0XGJNQdG8Blog post - Victoria Sending her first 5.12: www.goodsprayclimbing.com/how-victoria-sent-her-first-5-12/Force velocity curve graph: https://sportscienceinsider.com/force-velocity-curve/Form for submitting questions to the podcast: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScYWU3jBcHXHXeJLKSCxEQENYvvTBjgLf7spdSryapL5OOPvA/viewform

SNACK BREAKS: Getting what you want out of strength training, demystifying sets & reps

In this edition of Snack Breaks, we're giving you the quick and dirty run-down of how to structure your strength training for endurance, strength, or power. If you've ever asked "is it better to do a lot of reps at a low weight or a few reps at a heavy weight?", you'll want to give this a listen. 
... and if you want some help incorporating strength training into your climbing routine, here's some good news!The Good Spray self-guided training plan sale is on right now. You can get 25% off a self-guided sport climbing program, boulder program, or strength & fingers plan. Head on over to goodsprayclimbing.com/store to check out the deals and grab a plan! 
Want to master your understanding of how your nutrition, training, and lifestyle play a key role in impacting your hormonal health? Caitlin is collaborating with Emily Smith, The Outdoor Nutritionist, to bring you Bloom, An intimate 8-week coaching experience to get you from confused to empowered when it comes to your hormonal health. This program is for active women and gender queer individuals and includes eight weeks of group calls and educational content as you navigate a web of factors impacting hormonal health. The experience starts August 15th, but right now, you can get $100 off the total investment. Tap the link in our show notes to apply and learn more.
 
https://dirtbagnutritionist.podia.com/bloom-group-coaching-experience?coupon=BLOOMPRESALE
 
Enjoying the Podcast? Want more of it? Then get excited for the launch of our Patreon - and with that, Patron-only episodes! Sign up now to support the show and keep the episodes rolling in!The Average Climber Podcast is a part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can learn more about other shows in the collective by going to www.plugtoneaudio.com.